Ladakh Part II- Tsos of Ladakh –Pangong Tso

The trip to Pangong Tso was our second drive out from Leh and our first tryst with one of the high altitude passes that is responsible for Ladakh’s moniker. As this was just a day trip and a 4 hour long journey from Leh we started really early in the morning (well not that early but early enough). We were also informed by our driver that earlier we leave better our chances of returning back the same day because of a freak of nature called “Pagal Naala” that is unique to Pangong. Completely mystified but not ready to mess with nature (especially not at 18000 ft) we obliged.

Vaiguru with Pangong and surrounding mountain ranges in the background

The drive to Pangong was well worth the early morning wake up call for these late risers and had all the picturesque spots along the way that would have made a picture postcard company very happy. The first part of the journey was along (or actually against) our old friend –Indus river –crossing the more popular villages of Shey (of the Shey Palace fame) and Thiksey (of the Monastery fame)-blissfully asleep and tourist free at that hour. Although, at Shey we did see a camera crew setting up-apparently to shoot for a Bollywood flick. Our driver was a tad disappointed that the jaded cynics were not that excited about the shoot.

The drive uphill to Changla pass along the snow covered roads

As we turned left after Karu and gained elevation towards Changla Pass, the landscape changed dramatically. The green valleys along the river gave way to more rocky landscape and suddenly we were are 18000 ft where magically the snow covered peaks that we had been ogling from a fair distance were just a stone’s throw away. If we had to choose our favourite pass of the trip (if there is such a thing) it would definitely be Changla at 17586 ft. The views from the pass were definitely breathtaking and the special tea (for the significantly low oxygen levels) provided on the house by the army officers helped us feel cozy and warm as we marveled at their resilience in manning these posts through out the year.

View from ChangLa Pass

Playful Marmots- Alvin & the Chipmunk

When we drove downhill from Changla towards Pangong, we got to see much more of the snow - up, close and personal. As the morning sun worked its magic, the rocky terrain was now covered with a mossy carpet zig zagged with glacier water streams that still had snow clinging on the edges. We had been so engrossed in the sights that we later realized that there had been no vehicle or presence of the human kind for at least 30 km. And just as we thought that there were no creatures (of the two legged or four legged variety) to be seen, certain furry marmots made their presence felt. These guys were everywhere and were quickly re-christened by us as Alvin & the Chipmunks and true to their name these guys kept us entertained with their antics all along the drive. As we neared Pangong we finally came across the “Pagal Naala” – a freak of nature that is susceptible of flash floods if the sun is strong enough to melt the snows rendering the road completely non motorable. We however just caught a small trickle of water. Although on the way back the trickle had gained enough calories to be called a stream.

Melted snow turning in to a stream with yaks grazing peacefully in the background

Our first glimpse of the deep blue waters of Pangong through the rough, dusty terrain was definitely worth the drive. When we saw the blue waters stretch out towards infinity we almost cried out: It’s an ocean, It’s a sea, It’s Super Lake! The lake is supposed to be 150 km long and only 40 km of the blue water stretch is in India –the rest is part of China occupied Tibet. Staring at the brackish waters and the sandy beaches around it one could only wonder as to how this inland super lake came about. The lake is surrounded by snow covered ranges all around. We later realized that the Karakoram Range is supposed to be visible from the lake. However, these geographically challenged travelers still haven’t figured out which one it was. Any insights are most welcome.

First glimpse of Pangong Lake after literally driving through a salt desert

What to say about Pangong? We could go on an on about how clear the waters were, how many shades of blue there were, or how peaceful it felt to walk along the shores of the lake watching the black necked cranes float around. But anything we write won’t do justice to the place. So we shall let the pictures do the talking for us.

Once the tourists started trickling in sumo loads we beat a hasty retreat to Leh thinking that a night stop over at Pangong would have been truly magical. Oh well, there is always the next time.

Dates Traveled: 22nd June 2009

Other Photos: Tso of Ladakah I - Pangong

Words from the Wise:

1. Leave early to enjoy the drive and also catch some quiet moments at the lake. Once the tourist traffic starts its not that much fun

2. Breakfast & Chai at Karu is recommended –alloo paranthas there are quite brilliant

3. On reaching Pangong try and drive along the entire India part of the lake –if you are in a cab your driver will try and tell you its not possible. Don’t listen to him.

4. If you find idiots littering or creating a nuisance by scaring the birds do give them a piece of your mind – like we had to.