Riding with the Clouds

 Karmacola had the thought and conviction, and encouraged Vaiguru to try his hand at biking  in Leh. So we got one, geared up and it was the best thing we did on this trip.  The freedom to stop anytime, not having to tell the driver to stop or slow down whenever we felt like or when something looked breathtaking, which  was  very often, very. Unhindered is the word that  made us hum along with Janis "Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose...".  Our three days of biking around took us through some untouched beautiful places and experience the sights and smells of Ladakh that would not have happened had we not chosen to explore the road less traveled by riding with the Clouds! 

The varied shades of the Stok valley as seen from Stok Palace

So it started with, first day being a quick test drive to Shanti Stupa and we continued on a upward route skirting around Leh via Tisserru and Tsemu Gompas. Now, there is a big secret that everyone must know about the two travelers - we tend to get lost- a lot. We tend to justify it to ourselves that maybe that's the way we managed to cover un-chartered territories. Anyways, true to our nature we took the wrong turn along the way and before we knew it we were headed to Khardung La located at 17850 ft. Just a few thousand feet short we had to turn back as it was just too cold to continue.

                         

Very unlike us, not being able to resist a perfect photo op opportunity, we gave into our inner models and shamelessly posed. After all, who knows when will be able to ride with clouds at 13000 ft on world's purported highest motorable road.

Shanti Stupa deceptively looking like a miniature of its true self in the background making us realize how high we must have climbed in the last 10 min as we embarked on our latest not so misadventure

As we wandered along the narrow by lanes and side roads of Leh suburbs we were intrigued by sign posts directing us to someplace called "Donkey Sanctuary".  And yes, we eventually found the place complete with a very cute signboard  and a very troubled looking  donkey hanging outside the gates. The poor soul appeared to be separated from his/hers sweetheart who was inside the sanctuary. Feeling sorry for him, we soon headed on our way humming the tune from Tintin in Tibet - I love my Donkey. My Donkey is so sweet. Hope he is reunited soon enough

We still have not been able to make up or mind as to what was more satisfying to our senses-  food or the view that came along with it. The view of Leh town  was what we had  usually biked to Shanti Stupa for but this time around we headed to the little cafe nestled below the Stupa  Food though deceptively simple was a sensory blast -straight off the wok soy infused chow accompanied with the aromatic cinnamon black tea  -perfect for the crisp cold afternoon. Places like these made us realize that if we could we would gladly trade lunch here for all the gourmet restaurants in the country. The ever changing colors of the sky would be a feast in itself. It was quite an effort for these lazy bikers to tear themselves away but the wide open roads with the canopy of clouds were scrambling for our attention

No sooner than we crossed the Indus from the back alleys of Spituk, we reached our first of the 'lets-just-stay-here' stops. A lonely bridge that spoke to us...and told us that good things awaited us onward, places to drive to. And so we did fighting the urge to take off our shoes and go looking for fish.

Bridges make us happy, quaint, quiet lesser known bridges over cold clean blue waters make us want to build our home next to it. We whispered a tiny prayer and blew it into the flags. Who knows maybe the Buddha in Spituk gompa overlooking the bridge heard us.

If that was not convincing enough how about this island of Eden upstream of the bridge- the proverbial oasis in this beautiful cold desert

Shey monastery and palace as we drove along the west bank of Indus river. The hill side and the surrounding valley is dotted with white chortens. The large number of chortens at Shey has a story behind them. The king of Shey was known not to punish criminals and wrong doers with imprisonment. He would in fact make all criminals build a certain number of chortens as chastisement. Thus the criminal would absolve himself through a holy deed.

Our second big stopover on our drive through the backroads - Stok palace  surrounded by crumbling white chortens and lush green barley fields. The break in the clouds and the patch of blue could have been a spotlight turned on by the gods above

The colors of Stok palace -up close and personal. Wonder how many clouds must have passed by in the last 200 years

Glimpses of what can be -from the past to the present - not much has changed

Clouds seemed particularly close up here - rendering the surrounding mountains into a patchwork of browns & blacks

Crossing  over river Indus to find the road well traveled......another lovely quiet empty talking bridge...but this one tried to tell us " stay here...ain't I the best..? Oh look, a bird, and look here, look behind...close your mouth a little though" A perfect spot amongst a hundred others that made us want to stand and stare.

The Bridge of A Thousand Prayers blowing endlessly in the wind, we could not help but feel blessed. With Stakna maonastery and the Stok range looming over from behind  us as we crossed. I think the bridge found us than us finding it. Vaiguru staged a  minor rebellion and refused to drive any further - having found his happy place on the bridge.

Glistening and slithering river of mercury over a bordering green oasis cradled by the desert mountains

Many shades of green. Untouched inviting, living, flowing waters. A slightly chilly but sunny day.... Embracing it all as we drove on...

 It was an effort to tear away finally, leaving this bridge over the Indus behind with our learning to carry on just like it does.

Enroute to Upshi on the Leh Manali highway with the trusty river Indus as constant companion, steady and faithful.

Karmacola, cola that fuels! The One who made it all happen...

Dates Traveled: 17 May 2010- 23 May 2010

Words from the Wise:

1. May weather can be very unpredictable as we soon learnt. Keep your itinerary flexible and let Mother Nature guide your plans. 
2. The first flight into Leh is advisable as the latter flights can get canceled if the the weather is not conducive for landing
3. Renting a bike in Leh is quite easy and a cost effective way of traveling
4. We were not geared for biking but if you plan to do some serious biking it is worth carrying your biking gear along